 | ||||||
Red Star Cafe
| ||||||
I am in Erongaricuaro, in the mountains of Michoacan in a village more or less on the shore of Lake Patzcuaro (the lake itself is two km away by canal). I recommend Michoacan to you wholeheartedly. Very little glitz and lots of quality. Michoacan is probably the most wildly beautiful of the states. (I may be prejudiced!) Our beaches are exquisite and unspoiled. Our coast faces south. As a matter of fact, if you look on the globe, the next stop south is Antarctica. Apparently, that makes for great surfing. The coast mountains plunge right into the Pacific--very dramatic. The beaches are like brilliant white crescents lined with coconut palms and mango plantations. And enramadas where you can enjoy seafood that was swimming two hours before you order it.
The beach I like better than any other is Nexpa, but there are others up the coast (further out west) that are brilliant, too. Nexpa is about five hours by car from where I am. There are any number of little beach communities along the coast, all with their tiny hotels and B&Bs. I am going to the coast in the next few weeks so I will be able to give you a fuller report once I am back at my computer.
The mountains in Michoacan are beautiful, too, virtually all volcanic, except for the aforementioned coastal range. I read once that Lake Patzcuaro is surrounded by a thousand volcanoes, but I have not counted. Suffice to say that whatever mountain you see in this part of the state is going to be volcanic in origin. None that I know of are active at the moment. The elevation of my village is 2080 meters, quite high, and people with breathing problems probably shouldn't try to make it home. I don't know about visiting. Ask your doc.
Some of the villages in this state are deeply indigenous, and that means they do not want outsiders. A few want you to come and buy, and then get out. You can usually tell by looking. The indigenous villages simply do not have any place for you to stay. Period. Nor would you want to stay in them, because the people will be seriously uncomfortable; not unfriendly, just cool and distant. I do not recommend trying to stretch the "rules."
The village I live in is completely mestizo, but it is surrounded by indigenous villages. The indigenous people come to town on market day to sell their produce and buy staples. They also come here to get their every-other-monthly checks from the feds and to join in the health fairs on the plaza. This village is friendly and busy, and you can still find relatively cheap, comfortable, and safe lodgings, although we have a real lack of decent restaurants.
You really have to search for houses to rent because, as I said elsewhere, villagers are not accustomed to renting out their houses. Many houses here are very primitive by US standards. There are exceptions to this, of course. Our house on the plaza is traditional but nicely updated. You have to get used to the fact that here we live mainly outdoors since the weather is so pleasant most of the year. Our house has two patios, one is a gorgeous and messy garden, and the other is my studio and a place for the washer and dryer and a little cabaña for visitors. Fireplaces are good to have in the winter. Kitchens are often not furnished with anything--no stove, no fridge, nothing. Sometimes they don't even have sinks because you have to wash up in the pila. Depends on what you want. I could do without a lot to get to live here.
I don't want you to think I am neglecting Patzcuaro, one of the most beautiful cities on Earth, really, but it is being overrun with tourists and traffic and the gringo population is growing and prices are going way, way up. We make the 17 km trip on special occasions, like to Rick's Cha-cha-cha restaurant or for mariscos at La Guera. My good friend Monica rents out apartments in an overgrown and beautiful compound about a fifteen-minute walk from the Plaza Chica. I do not know about availability (they are longer, rather than short term) or cost anymore, but I could ask if you or anyone was interested. We used to jokingly call the compound Gringolandia, but it is really a pleasant little community of wonderful and artistic characters. (Hi Molly! Hi Carol! Hi Charlie! I love you guys!) David and I rent the house we occupy on Eronga's plaza from Monica, and we are happy to have her for a landlady.
I am overwhelming you, so I will quit and see if you have any other questions.
Carlos
Red Star Café
Central Plaza in Eronga, looking north!
Red Star Cafe is the red star on the left side.
Welcome!
Erongaricuaro, which means "place of waiting" or "place of the watchtower" in the Purhépecha language, is a village in the state of Michoacán, Mexico. It is located about an hour and a half drive from Morelia and Uruapan, and just 20 minutes from the famous colonial town of Patzcuaro. The estimated population is 5,000 people.
Eronga, lies just across Lake Pátzcuaro from Pátzcuaro and the farthest Left Bank of the Lake. The native Purhépecha from the pueblos near Eronga come to market day on Tuesdays. This ancient town was one of the critical trade points for the Purhepecha empire. Friendly to outsiders, Eronga has hosted artists such as Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera along with the fathers of surrealism, Andre Breton and Leon Trotsky. Former president Lazaro Cardenas used it as his hideway across the lake before the road arrived to Eronga. Today Eronga hosts ex-patriots from Argentina, the United States, France, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy.
The lively Eronga plaza has many exotic trees displaying the area's tolerant climate.
Altitude above sea level: 2,100 meters or 7163 feet
Temperature: Maximum 24°C or 75°F; Minimum 6°C or 43°F
Erongarícuaro is hidden high in the mountains of Michoacán at 2200 m (7130 feet) of elevation. To the East is Lake Pátzcuaro, one of Mexico's highest lakes.
The town retains its ancient atmosphere. It consists of largely one-story adobe or plaster-over-brick buildings with red tile roofs. The streets are dusty cobblestones traveled by horse and car. The plaza has a fountain, stage and amazing collection of trees. Wandering the streets uphill, there is a cemetery and a chapel.
The pretty Purhepecha village of Eronga lies on the west side of the lake about 17km/11mi from Pátzcuaro. During the Second World War a group of French Surrealists found refuge in Eronga.
Notable residents of Eronga
Lázaro Cárdenas The popular President of Mexico, was rumored to take his boat across the lake where no road reached. He began from his large mansion in Patzcuaro, which now houses CREFAL and upon reaching Erongaricauro was free to make fiestas with his girlfriends in Mansion Las Rosas, right on the plaza.
During Mexico's postwar art scene:
Trotsky, Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Jean Charlot, Andre Breton.
Roberto Matta, Remedios Varo, Esteban Francis, Pierre Mabille, Benjamin Péret
Gordon Onslow Fordand his wife Jacqueline Johnson, an American writer.
Peruvian poet César Moro, anthropologist Miguel Covarrubias, painter Carlos Mérida
Surrealist painter Wolfgang Paalen with painter and poet Alice Rahon, and photographer Eva Sulzer.
Don’t miss these Eronga attractions:
The Plaza.
The furniture factory.
The Church The naturalistic crucifix above the altar is known locally as 'El Señor de la Misericordia'. It is an example of 16th century "Pidgin Plateresque" architecture, a style unique to highland Michoacán.
The large plaza hosts large Banda concerts.
Monastery. The Church and monastery was founded by the Franciscans. Occasionally the door to the seminary is open and you can see the gardens and views of the lake. Occasional concerts.
Red Star Cafe
The Red Star Café is located on plaza in Erongarícuaro.
Red Star Café
Portal Hidalgo#3 Cafe
10 am until 2 pm on Saturday and Sunday.
The Red Star cafe offers a full menu of breakfasts and lunches, plus fresh juice, fresh fruit with yogurt, torts, omelets,
french toast and more!!!!
The menu is outstanding
The house that is home to the café is around 400 years old, and it is a good example of the mixture of colonial and indigenous architecture that is prevalent in our pueblo.
Next time you find yourselves over here on the Left Bank, we hope you will stop by and enjoy a visit to Cafe. And remember, breakfast is the most important meal of the day.
The theory behind the Red Star Café, which they sincerely hope infuses their praxis, is that food should be carefully prepared from local, fresh, and organic ingredients when at all possible. They are advocates of the worldwide Slow Food Movement, although that does not mean you will wait hours for your food to arrive at the table. The fastest item on our menu, however, is our Italian style espresso, which should get to you at the exact temperature at which you can comfortably sip it.
Another of the ideas behind the café is that all the workers in it should own the "means of production." This gives us all pride of ownership, and it is probably the reason the service at Red Star is the best anywhere, right up there along with the food. The ambience is relaxing and beautiful.
The Cafe is available for art shows, as well as musical and dance performances, study groups, play readings, and anything else you can come up with that is free and open.
Red Star Café
Another project of Las Rosas Collective
Erongaricuaro, Michoacan
Across the street from the Plaza, enjoy the outdoor Red Star Café.
Inside the cafe, drink espresso at the open-air patio tables.
Eat homemade flan at tables inside and under the portal.
Serving August 1 - 2, 2009
This weekend at the Red Star Café in Erongarícuaro you can expect our usual delicious breakfasts beautifully served with some of the following sides: tian de courgettes et tomates (a fabulous tomato and zucchini casserole sprinkled with parmesan cheese and baked in the oven drenched in extra virgin olive oil), chiles gueros rellenos con el chorizo de Jorge (little sunset colored chiles stuffed with Jorge´s super chorizo), haricots verts au vinaigrette (steamed green beans in a vinaigrette sauce), brocolis au maitre d´hotel sauce d´beurre (steamed broccoli in a butter sauce), rajas de chile guero largo (sauteed strips of chile guero), poireaux et pommes de terre au gratin (leeks and potatoes au gratin), and poireaux Nicoise (leeks nicoise). Alongside all of this are fruits, including tunas rojas or scarlet tunas from the nopal cactus, and many others. Or try our tortilla española with its toasty base of braised leeks and zucchini.We are happy to announce that we have found a local microbrewery and have bought a case of their nearly divine pale ale for your delectation. The new beer is named El Diablo, and we will soon add an El Diablo stout to our menu. We will premier the stout at the opening on August 15 of the artwork of Jon Skaglund. This weekend we will have our usual Mexican beers and the pale ale, as well as Baileys, Kahlua, red and white wines, and the best coffee in Mexico. Try your cappuccino with a shot of Baileys or Kahlua sometime. You may never switch back to just plain, no matter how delicious, cappuccinos.The music this weekend will be a delightul blend of classical and rock and roll. Come and dance!We are open, as always, from ten till two, and the Red Star Café is on Eronga´s beautiful plaza at Portal Hidalgo 3. Look for the little yellow sign with red, of course, letters.You have nothing to lose but your change!
Erongaricuaro, about 20k around Lake Patzcuaro, on the Left Bank.
Eronga's Red Star Café Spanish Torta
Eaten August 29, 2009
Serving for Saturday and Sunday, August 29 & 30, 2009
In addition to our wonderful breakfasts this weekend, the sides will be olive potatoes, bacon and almond leeks in a cream sauce, beet stacks with goat cheese, lime butter broccoli, and petit pois ala francaise (fresh shelled peas in a butter sauce). Four of the five sides are vegetarian. There will also be various combination of sauteed leek, buttered cetas, potatoes, and just about anything else you might want in omelettes and Spanish tortillas. We still have a little of El Diablo´s wonderful pale ale and stout, plus our regular national beers, and the best espresso and cappuccino in Mexico. So, come hungry. Diets be darned!
I am feeling a little Spanishy this week, so maybe I will play some experimental flamenco and some zarzuelas.
Serving for August 22 & 23, 2009
This weekend, in addition to our usual delectable breakfasts, we will be serving as sides such French-Mexican delicacies as chorizette (potatoes, bacon, and chorizo), mushroom toasts with cetas and cream (on Ivo's brilliant whole grain bread), zucchini fondue, haricots vertes au sauce vinaigrette (green beans in a zesty sauce), piments piquant farcis (chile guero stuffed with rice pilaf and flor de calabacita), lime butter broccoli, and maybe even some little gougeresa delightful puff pastry). All part of our bid to be the best little restaurant in Mexico.
Our Italian-style espresso and cappuccino drinks will delight your palate (they have already been called the best in Mexico), as will El Diablo´s pale ale and stout. Or have a glass of red or white wine. Or a bottle of Chilean red. You can also add Irish Cream or Kahlua to your coffee.For you vegetarians, we also serve the potato dish without chorizo and bacon, and you can make an entire meal of the sides. Choose four for $50 or five for$60.
Jon Skaglund´s fine show, Eronga Works/Eronga Trabaja is still up for your viewing pleasure. Our café is set up specifically for viewing the art. Reservations
ph#434-344-0027
Jon Skaglund
Serving Saturday and Sunday, August 8 & 9, 2009
We have a terrific menu this weekend at the café. Our main plate special will be piments doux farcis, or sweet yellow peppers stuffed to the brim with Jorge´s chorizo and a few of my seasoning extras and topped with a lovely Italian parmesano cheese. I browned plenty of sauteed poireaux or leeks for stuffing into a fancy French omelette or Spanish tortilla. You could add a little of Jorge´s chorizo too, if you really want to do it up right. The sides this weekend will be crusty lentil cakes with garlic and chile ancho and chile guajillo, asperges au sauce mayonnaise (that´s asparagus in a mayo sauce), chou-fleur au sauce bechamel (and that´s coliflor), tomates a l'ail (tomatoes with a garlic salt topping), brocolis au sauce beurre maitre d'hotel, and a fantastic green bean and zucchini salad topped with peaches and pomegranate seeds. And, of course, our wonderful house potato-leek au gratin with lots of garlic.Any and all of the above would go well with our house white or red wine, a fine national beer, or a fabulous pale ale from the El Diablo microbrewery. And a cappuccino afterwards with a splash of either kahlua or maybe some Baileys Irish cream.
We start serving at ten and quit more or less at two, although we are not at all pushy--this ain´t LA or NYC--and we like you to enjoy our patio as long as you want.
So, come on over to the Left Bank this weekend and enjoy our culinary art, hear some Rachmaninoff or maybe a bit of Debussy, and meet some fascinating and charming folks, our customers, who are the cream of the cream. You might want to get here early and spend the day.
Charles Dews, Barista and Chef de Cuisine
Now serving at the Red Star Café
Serving July 18 & 19, 2009
This weekend at the Red Star Café in Erongarícuaro we have on offer tian de courgettes et tomates (a zucchini-tomato casserole), pommes de terre et poireaux au gratin (potato-leek au gratin), chiles morrones rellenos con el chorizo de Jorge (sweet red peppers stuffed with Jorge´s delectable chorizo), poireaux Nicoise (baked leeks and tomatoes), asperges bouillies au vinaigrette (asparagus in a vinaigrette sauce), and those are just the side dishes that come with your meal. Our regular menu of fine breakfast items includes eggs any way you want them including in a Spanish tortilla or a French omelette, French toast with a hint of brandy, our famous croque monsieur (a fabulous grilled ham and cheese sandwich on Ivo´s brilliant bread), a fat slice of gorgeous chocolate bundt cake, and, of course, all of this accompanied by the best coffee in Mexico perhaps with a shot of Kahlua or Irish Cream or maybe a fine Chilean red wine or just our house red and white, or a chilly Negra Modelo with lime. All of our breakfasts, by the way, are accompanied by a selection of fresh fruit to keep you healthy and hearty.So, come enjoy Saturday or Sunday morning on our beautiful patio and get carried away by our cool music. You never know what it will be, of course, but this weekend I think I may be leaning towards some Django Reinhardt and maybe a little Maria Callas. I can hardly ever resist the Dixie Chicks, but we shall see. Eronga´s Red Star Café is THE place to be weekends. Bring your friends.Serving July 25 & 26, 2009
Put on your bibs, folks. This weekend at the Red Star we are offering a special: chiles poblanos stuffed to the brim with real Italian sausage and real Michoacán mushrooms. They are delectable.Our breakfasts are the usual, but the sides are leeks and potatoes au gratin, zucchini and tomato casserole, broccoli in a maitre d´ butter sauce, asparagus au vinaigrette, and leeks Nicoise. Nothing like it in all of Michoacán, probably in all of Mexico.
And, of course, our espresso and cappuccino is the best in the Republic. We also offer national beers, imported wines, along with Bailey´s Irish Cream and Kahlua.The music this weekend will include, as always, the Dixie Chicks, some Baez and Dylan, maybe, and for your classical folks, a lovely touch of Shostakovich, and maybe some Debussy.We are open Saturdays and Sundays from ten till two. Come break fast with us.And don´t forget to ask for your copy of The Happy Depression Herald.
Juan Calderone - Sous Chef
Chef de Partie
Fruit and yogurt
Mushroom omelette
Eggs, as you like them
French toast
The Red Star Cafe is currently on vacation!
